Ancona
A dramatic Adriatic port city on a promontory, with a Romanesque cathedral commanding the hilltop.
About Ancona
Ancona wraps around a natural harbour formed by a headland that gives the city its name (from the Greek ankon, meaning 'elbow'). The hilltop Romanesque Cathedral of San Ciriaco sits on the site of an ancient Greek temple, offering panoramic views of the Adriatic. Below, the old town cascades down to the harbour past the impressive Arco di Traiano, Lazzaretto (a pentagonal quarantine island), and Piazza del Plebiscito. Ancona is a working port and the main ferry terminal for Croatia and Greece, which gives it a cosmopolitan edge. The seafood here is exceptional—brodetto all'anconetana (fish stew) is the local pride—and the surrounding Conero Riviera has some of the Adriatic's most beautiful beaches.
Best Time to Visit
May to September for combining the city with Conero beaches. Summer brings Adriatic warmth and outdoor dining. The Conero coast is at its best in June and September without August crowds.
Local Tips
- Climb to the cathedral at sunset.
San Ciriaco's hilltop position offers 360-degree views of the city, harbour, and Adriatic. A local will time the climb for golden hour and explain the cathedral's Greek-cross plan and Byzantine influences.
- Swim at the Conero beaches.
The Monte Conero promontory south of Ancona hides stunning white-pebble beaches like Portonovo and the Due Sorelle. A local knows the boat services, the hiking trails down the cliffs, and the best beach restaurants.
- Taste brodetto all'anconetana.
Ancona's fish stew uses 13 types of Adriatic fish and no tomato—just saffron, vinegar, and garlic. A local knows the harbour-side restaurants where fishermen's families still prepare it the traditional way.