Matera
Ancient cave city risen from shame to splendour—Europe's most extraordinary urban landscape.
About Matera
Matera is a city that rewrites what you think is possible. The Sassi—two ravine-side quarters of homes, churches, and monasteries carved into limestone over millennia—were once so impoverished they were called 'the shame of Italy.' Their inhabitants were forcibly relocated in the 1950s. Then came a remarkable renaissance: the Sassi became a UNESCO World Heritage Site, then European Capital of Culture 2019. Today, the cave dwellings house boutique hotels, restaurants, and galleries, while the overall effect—a cascade of golden stone tumbling down a gorge—is genuinely breathtaking, especially at sunset or when lit at night. The surrounding Murgia plateau hides more cave churches with Byzantine frescoes.
Best Time to Visit
April to June or September to October. Summer is scorching—the stone amplifies the heat. The Sassi are magical at sunrise and sunset. The July Festa della Bruna procession is Matera's biggest celebration.
Local Tips
- Sleep in a cave hotel.
Matera's cave hotels are genuinely carved from rock, not just themed. A local knows which ones preserve original features—stone water cisterns, carved niches, ancient frescoes—versus modern imitations.
- Cross the gorge to the Murgia.
The best view of the Sassi is from the opposite side of the gorge. A local can guide you across to the Murgia plateau, where you'll also discover rock-cut churches with 12th-century frescoes hidden in the scrubland.
- Eat pane di Matera.
Matera's bread—made from local durum wheat and baked in ancient wood ovens—has IGP status and a distinctive horn shape. A local knows the bakeries that still use traditional methods and where to try it with the local cruschi peppers.
(the local lens)
Meet the Local Experts
Your on-the-ground insiders . The ones who know the enduring favourites, the quiet corners and what’s worth your time.
