Viterbo
A medieval papal city with hot springs, Gothic palaces, and the best-preserved old quarter in Lazio.
About Viterbo
Viterbo is medieval Italy at its most atmospheric. For two decades in the 13th century, it served as the seat of the papacy, and the Papal Palace—where the word 'conclave' was literally invented—still stands above the rooftops. The San Pellegrino quarter is Lazio's best-preserved medieval neighbourhood: narrow stone streets, external staircases, tiny piazzas, and towers that look unchanged since the 1200s. Beyond the walls, Viterbo sits on a volcanic plateau dotted with hot springs—the ancient Terme dei Papi (Baths of the Pope) offer outdoor thermal pools in a countryside setting. The volcanic soil also produces excellent wines, particularly the Est! Est!! Est!!! of Montefiascone.
Best Time to Visit
April to October. The Macchina di Santa Rosa procession on September 3rd sees a 30-metre tower of light carried through the streets—one of Italy's most spectacular festivals. Spring and autumn are ideal for combining thermal baths with old town exploring.
Local Tips
- Wander the San Pellegrino quarter.
This medieval quarter has barely changed in 800 years. A local knows the unmarked courtyards, the profferlo staircases unique to Viterbo, and the tiny wine bar hidden in a 13th-century tower.
- Soak in papal hot springs.
The Terme dei Papi offers thermal pools at 40°C in a beautiful countryside setting. A local will also show you the free Bullicame spring—mentioned by Dante—where locals swim year-round.
- See the Macchina di Santa Rosa.
On September 3rd, 100 men carry a 30-metre illuminated tower through the narrow streets. A local will secure you a spot along the route for this heart-stopping UNESCO-listed spectacle.
(the local lens)
Meet the Local Experts
Your on-the-ground insiders . The ones who know the enduring favourites, the quiet corners and what’s worth your time.
